Since 2015, I have hosted nearly a dozen trips on hotel barges. These are narrow, custom-built vessels that putter along the French canals generally for six nights/seven days. Because the barges are confined to dimensions that will allow the transit of multiple locks, many measuring less than 20 feet wide, staterooms are smallish but adequate.
Ten of the staterooms, all on the lower deck, feature two single beds, television (rarely watched), storage and spacious en-suite bathrooms. One stateroom, on the main deck, is designated as accessible. It features a double bed and accessible bathroom. I once had a couple book a barge trip then cancel before our departure because they preferred a larger stateroom and a balcony. What a pity, I thought. They missed out on a great experience because the barge did not have the balcony that they would seldom use.
One deck above the lower deck is an outdoor terrace, with six cafe tables, grill, bikes for cycling ashore and a Jacuzzi that guests frequently use. With a maximum of 22 guests, there’s never a battle for a place in the Jacuzzi.
If weather permits (sunny, but not windy) dining may be on the terrace for one lunch or dinner. Otherwise, breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the dining room on the main deck. The cuisine, say guests who’ve traveled with me, rivals the Michelin-starred restaurants they experienced before boarding.
The barge features an open bar, with only a few items (think champagne and fine whiskeys) carrying charges. A tumbler of Glenfiddich, for example, goes for €6 (US$6.50). Otherwise, there is a wide selection of included spirits, wines, soft drinks, beers and cocktails. Meals are always accompanied by French wines that have drawn no complaints from any of the trips that I have hosted. I priced one bottle from Burgundy at $35 when I returned home.
One deck above is a sun terrace, which is often closed on canals where bridges are too low to pass under with the barge’s side railings extended. On our trip, because we were mostly on rivers, the sun terrace was accessible most days.
The stars of the show, however, are the staff (a captain, first mate, cruise manager, room steward, chef and waiter), the French countryside as we meander the canals and rivers, and of course, the included excursions. Typically, there will be navigation (motoring along) for one half of the day and excursions for the second half of the day. The barges overnight either in small villages or the countryside, allowing guests to take walks after dinner. Those so inclined can pedal into town, usually on dedicated bike lanes.
I am, in fact, on board a barge as I type these words. CroisiEurope’s Raymonde is moored in Compiègne, a charming city that is a little more than an hour’s drive from Paris. We took four days to get here, navigating for half days along the Seine and Oise (pronounced “was”) rivers. I toured the town this morning but decided to skip the second half of the tour so that I could come back to the barge to meet my publishing deadline. Sitting here on the barge’s terrace, as a light breeze caresses a clutch of river birches across the river, marks one of my best moments in France so far. France, in fact, could have no historic attractions, no museums, no must-sees, and I would be just fine. I am happiest absorbing the French way of life. I could sit in a cafe for hours watching people. Yes, a plate of escargot, slices of baguette to sop up the garlic butter and a glass of chablis would enhance the experience but even without those, I am just where I want to be.
Each year, I tell myself, this chapter is closing. I am hosting my last barge trip. But then, when the trips ends, as ours will tomorrow, I am left with a feeling that I cannot resist, the desire to return and experience it all one more time. I’m not sure where my next barge trip will take me and 20 others, but I know that France and our tiny barge will once again deliver a magical experience, and one that is only possible on such small and intimate vessels.
This article was originally published at River Cruise Advisor.
