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When In Amsterdam: Cycle Waterland

River cruising to or from Amsterdam? Why not do what the Dutch do and straddle a saddle? Hop on a bike and pedal your way through Amsterdam and the beautiful countryside to experience this fascinating region the way the locals do.

Most river cruise companies make bikes available to guests – at no additional charge. All you need to do is ask your ship’s front desk staff to prepare a bike for you. You’ll likely need to sign a release of liability, and you may be required to wear a helmet, which many cruise company provides.

Cycling in Amsterdam is safe and easy, provided that you follow the rules. Be sure to watch for the tram tracks. Either dismount or cross them at an angle to avoid an accident.

The entire country of the Netherlands is mostly flat and ideal for cycling. Plus, typically cyclists pedal along roads either with no cars at all (with tiny traffic lights for bikes) — or with drivers who actually pay attention to cyclists. That is why Dutch cyclists are 30 times less likely to be killed than their stateside counterparts, according to Bicycling magazine.

While all of us know that Amsterdam is one of the most bike-friendly cities in the world, few travelers know that just north of Amsterdam is a heavenly place to cycle. It’s called Waterland, a quaint region of fishing villages and picturesque landscapes, that makes for an ideal afternoon getaway by bike.

Everyone cycles in Amsterdam. I was told the SH on the bike pictured indicated that someone with a hearing handicap was the owner. © 2010 Ralph Grizzle

Exploring Waterland

I’ve pedaled Waterland several times. During my first ride, I learned how to carry three ice cream cones on a bike. I saw a girl doing just that. To carry three, she turned one cone upside down on top of the other so that she had only to contend with two cones in one hand.

I rode along a dyke through Uitdam and to the charming village of Marken, where the fishermen’s houses were built on poles. The town is a tourist attraction, where all the homes are painted a dark green with red tile roofs.

After about an hour of pedaling past attractive countryside, I stopped for lunch in a beautiful seaside village, where I dined on a plate of mussels, french fries, salad, bread, applesauce and cole slaw.

A well-deserved lunch. © 2010 Ralph Grizzle

Fortified, I pedaled to Monnickendam, a charming village, then to Zuiderwoude, where I could see the “Welcome to the town limits” and “You Are Leaving the town limits” signs as I pedaled in. There was a wonderful teahouse there.

A teahouse near Zuiderwoude. © 2010 Ralph Grizzle

I rode along the Amstel, past barges and boats to the small village of Ouderkerk ann de Amstel, older than Amsterdam. I stopped there to have an apple shortcake from a century-old bakery and a Witte beer at a restaurant dating back to 1624.

Older than Amsterdam, Ouderkerk ann de Amstel makes for a good stop to have a beer. © 2010 Ralph Grizzle

I found my way back to the ferry. The complete circuit took about six hours and was so enjoyable. I hope to do it again one day.

Cycling routes, depending on the one you choose, are between 25 kilometers and 55 kilometers. The Marken Cycle Route takes you to the former island of Zuiderzee in the Waterland region. You will pass through a couple of notable villages such as Zuiderwoude, Holysloot, and Ransdorp.

Getting to Waterland From Amsterdam

Waterland is easy to access from Amsterdam via ferry. Leaving directly across from Amsterdam’s Central Rail Station, the ferries are free and cross every five minutes or so. A ramp lowers and you push your bike on. The ferry transit is only a couple of minutes, and you’ll stand there among a throng of other cyclists waiting to reach the other side.

Join other cyclists on the free ferry toward Waterland. © 2010 Ralph Grizzle

This article was originally published at River Cruise Advisor.


An avid traveler and an award-winning journalist, Ralph Grizzle produces articles, video and photos that are inspiring and informative, personal and passionate. A journalism graduate of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Ralph has specialized in travel writing for more than two decades. To read more cruise and port reviews by Ralph Grizzle, visit his website at www.avidcruiser.com and www.rivercruiseadvisor.com.

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